Our bouldering gym has been vibrating these last couple days
from all of the hype at the American Bouldering Series 14. I actually think it was partly responsible
for getting me psyched enough to send two of my projects. But like everyone was saying on Twitter: The
ABS 14 stream was like climbing’s very own Super Bowl. Despite the lack of high-budget commercials,
I know our apartment wasn't the only one filling up with people eager to see
D-Wood defend his title against the dyno’ing power of Vasya Vorotnikov and the indoor-headband
swag of Ian Dory. And before it fades
into the backdrop of American climbing history, let’s take a moment to look at
some of what we at Chicago Climber think are the highlights from ABS 14.
Women’s Problem #2: The Pyramidal Puzzle from the 31st Century.
Women’s Problem #2: The Pyramidal Puzzle from the 31st Century.
Not only was the beta lookin’ gnar on this gymnastic
challenge, but the route itself was quite a site (see image below). The problem forced
competitors into iffy hand/foot matches as they twirled their bodies up a
dramatic overhang all using holds mounted on slopey pyramids. I wasn’t sure if this problem was inspired by
iRobot or Tron. The first thing out of
my mouth when I saw the first attempt of W2 was “Damn! That problem looks straight
outta the future”. I bet Sierra Blair-Coyle
had the same thought, but didn’t Tweet about it because her
Twittered crashed due to her persistent and thorough coverage of the event (I should just dream on...). In the end, I’d say this route came out as
one of the competitions most creative and entertaining problems – especially
when Puccio flashed it.
Vasya Vorotnikov’s Dyno on Problem #2
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| Alex Johnson cuts her feet and faces the crowd as she figures out Problem #2.[Image source: absnationals.org] |
Vasya Vorotnikov’s Dyno on Problem #2
During moments like this one, I always wonder what the route
setter’s reaction is to someone skipping four of your meticulously placed holds
with a mighty one-handed dyno to a slope intended for feet (pictured below). We were channeling Vorotnikov a serious
high-five for not just his creativity, but for knowing how get a crowd riled
up. This is the kind of this that you
want to see in a competition. It really
plays into that gladiatorial arena vibe that gets me all amped at comps.
Isabelle Faus Represents Chicago
 |
| Vorotnikov sticks his dyno on Problem #2. [Image source: absnationals.org] |
Chicago Climber cannot forget to give Isabelle Faus a BIG
SHOUT OUT for reppin’ the windy City and all the urban climbers. She climbed at our local bouldering gym, Hidden Peak,
for about 8 years. Way 2 crush your way to the top Faus!
 |
| The three female winners: (from left to right) Isabelle Faus, Alex Puccio, and Andrea Szekely. [Image source: absnationals.org] |
The ABS 14 stream unified climbers around the country in
our own aired event. Sure we all get
psyched to go to our own local competitions, but when have climbers in the country
gotten a chance to watch the biggest indoor bouldering event live?
The Twitter feed was blowing up. The ABS 14 chat room was blowing up. I would really like to get ahold of just how
many people streamed the ABS 14 competition, because I think the people over at
the Olympics would perk their ears hearing how many people want to see
climbing. In case you haven’t heard,
climbing is in the running for possibly being in the 2020
Olympics. It is aired events like this
that get us that spot – and ultimately the recognition that climbing
deserves! I think I speak for everyone
when I say: let’s keep this hype growing.
What were your favorites moments in ABS 14? Tell us below.
Highlights and pictures have been released. For more information on ABS 14 goto:
www.absnationals.org/
www.usaclimbing.org/
spotsettingblog.wordpress.com/category/comps/
www.climbingnarc.com/
All photos were taken from the highlight reels at the ABS website
-Matt
Chicago Climber
About me: I’ve been climbing for 5 years both indoors and outdoors. Since I’ve lived in Midwestern cities my whole life, most of my climbing has been at indoors gyms while outdoor trips are scattered throughout my year. I like long crimpy sequences, matching on slopers, and “blacking out” while leading. I currently climb at Hidden Peak a few times a week, and plan on visiting the Red again in April for my birthday.
What were your favorites moments in ABS 14? Tell us below.
Highlights and pictures have been released. For more information on ABS 14 goto:
www.absnationals.org/
www.usaclimbing.org/
spotsettingblog.wordpress.com/category/comps/
www.climbingnarc.com/
All photos were taken from the highlight reels at the ABS website
-Matt
Chicago Climber
About me: I’ve been climbing for 5 years both indoors and outdoors. Since I’ve lived in Midwestern cities my whole life, most of my climbing has been at indoors gyms while outdoor trips are scattered throughout my year. I like long crimpy sequences, matching on slopers, and “blacking out” while leading. I currently climb at Hidden Peak a few times a week, and plan on visiting the Red again in April for my birthday.
Look for my posts next week!
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